FAQs

The price of a keyless entry system actually depend on the vehicle. For keyless entry, some can be easily done with a 1-wire data connection, others have to be manually and individually wired, and on some vehicles, a data module is required. If the car has a factory alarm, than we need to wire in our module to it to arm and disarm it.

If your car has manual locks, than it’s needed to add actuators to each door which is a significantly more involved and costly job compared to a vehicle equipped with power locks. For an accurate quote on getting a keyless entry system installed in your car, give us a call at 905-732-7168/905-732-0222 with the year, make and model of your vehicle. Please mention if the vehicle has manual locks.

The price of an alarm depends on the vehicle and what security options you would like to use. Although it can be done without, we highly suggest to get the door locks tied in with the alarm for function, convenience and piece of mind; having an alarm isn’t very effective if the vehicle was accidentally left unlocked.

With the locks tied in, the unit locks the car and sets the alarm at the same time. Also, you can get additional protection as door, hood and truck switches, shock sensors, glass break sensors, proximity sensors and even wire in a immobilizer.

For an accurate quote on getting an alarm installed in your car or truck, give us a call at 905-732-7168/905-732-0222 with the year, make and model of your vehicle and what options you would like.

That truly depends on the vehicle and job being done. Some can be done in a little over an hour, other 3 to 4 hours. It depends on what is required and what options you have chosen. Also, some vehicles can take longer when programming in the security modules. We typically like to give a 2.5 to 3.5 hour window per vehicle.

For simple installations like basic head units and satellite radio it’s not always necessary, but highly recommended. Because we work by appointments, walk-ins for amp and sub installs, speakers and remote starters, etc. are difficult to fit in because of the amount of time they take. It would be suggested to call rather than stopping by to see if there are any cancellations for that day.

Most cars we only need the one key, but on some newer Chrysler, Ford, Mazda and other vehicles, 2 original keys are absolutely necessary. On these cars, the way the anti-theft system works, we have to unlock the computer and program in the needed security module to be accepted as a new key. Some need to be 2 original keys, and no copies. For these cars, the security module literally gets programmed to be recognized as an additional key.

Each key has a chip inside of it, and each is unique. If we are using a copied key, the computer sees that we are just putting in the same key in twice and won’t work. If your car only came with 1 key, you will need to get a new one cut and brought to the dealership to get hooked to their computer and programmed in.

This service typically starts at over $100 and up to $300-$400, depending on the manufacturer. This is a common unforeseen cost that can get added to the total installation cost of getting a remote starter installed.

Yes you do. Even if the car doesn’t have a factory alarm, most car manufacturers have implemented systems so that it’s not possible to start the car without a key, eliminating the possibility of “hot-wiring” a car. Without the security module, the anti-theft system will think the car is trying to be stolen, and not allow the car to start, effectively rendering your remote starter useless.

The models we carry offers a variety of different ranges. The basic 4-button unit gets a range of up to 1500 feet and the the LCD fob gets a range of up to 2500 feet. The range of course will vary depending on the weather conditions, RF interference and objects that the signal may have to travel through to reach the receiver.

Yes that’s no problem. On the units we sell, they do come with 2 remotes, but if you would like a 3rd remote, or you would like to replace a broken or even a lost remote, we carry and can get remotes for all units that we sell.

Unfortunately at this time we do not. When it comes to a manual transmission vehicle, there is no fool-proof safeguard against the car being able to start while it’s in gear. We do not recommend this.

Yes we can. We carry remote starters that have a diesel mode that will allow the glow plugs to ready before the vehicle starts.

That is no problem on vehicles equipped with power locks and a power trunk. Vehicles with a manual cable-pull trunk would require the additional install of an electric solenoid, if space allows.

Putting power locks in a car that doesn’t have one isn’t a simple, or in some cases, even possible job. Actuators need to be installed in each door, tied to the manual locking system, and wires ran out each door to the main control unit. There are a few cases where there just simply isn’t enough room to fit an aftermarket actuator behind the door panel.

It actually depends on the vehicle. Older vehicles may need only an adaptor plate, harness adaptor and antenna adaptor. Newer vehicles may need integration harness that “talk” to the vehicles BCM. And in more and more installs, radios can not be changed or need a very expensive integrated plate/harness. Always best to call for information!

Absolutely! We typically carry the most popular standard and odd-sized speakers, including 3.5″, 5×7″, 6×8″ and 4×10″ speakers. The only concern is actually the depth, specifically in the door to be able to be clear of the movement of the window and it’s mechanisms.

Depends on the car and how old it is. Usually we recommend to upgrade the radio first. Upgrading from the factory radio usually shows a significant improvement, mostly because having higher powered outputs as well as a better quality DAC. We find that most newer vehicles come with some fairly good quality speakers and a new head unit truly wakes them up. Older vehicles typically use cheaper speakers, with a smaller magnet and/or a cheap paper cone. At that point, it would be highly suggested to replace and upgrade the speakers. In the vehicle is equipped with a factory amplifier, along with their fairly common failure rate as the vehicles age, quality is usually better when the factory amp is bypassed and ran using the built-in amplifier of the new head unit.

From there, the ideal setup for sound clarity would be to run a separate amplifier and setting up component speakers with tweeters and crossovers. This is the more expensive way to go, not only for the need for additional equipment, but to truly get the quality of this setup, you will also need to invest in higher-end speakers.

Once the speakers are setup, you will need a subwoofer to specifically take care of the low frequencies that the speakers can’t properly reproduce.

Not a problem. We sell subwoofers, amplifiers and boxes too. As well, we sell all the wiring necessary to do the installation, even if you want to do your own installation. This is a fairly easy job if you already have an aftermarket deck in the car. You can get amplifiers that can tap into the speaker lines using “line-level inputs” or you can also get low-level converter boxes to do this job.

Although it’s not an ideal option compared to using proper pre-outs, it is a more efficient setup. Also on some factory stereos, they lower the bass level as the volume increases. You can get low-level converter boxes that compensate for this.

There’s actually a few options. Clarion, Focal and other companies make slim subwoofers that can use as little as 0.15 cubic feet of space for an 8″ and 0.45cu-ft for 10″. We can design a box specifically for you vehicle. They are typically available for the more popular pick up trucks and SUV, but they can also be designed for cars as well. They are an ideal option and can be purchased with optional subwoofers and/or amplifiers, depwending on your budget.

That actually depends on the length of cable you need. Saying the average run of wires is about 16 feet, 8 gauge is good for about 100 watts (RMS), 4 gauge is good for about 600 watts (RMS) and 2 gauge up to 1400 watts RMS.

Yes it is, but it’s not always ideal. You can get amplifiers that can tap into the speaker lines using “line-level inputs” or you can also get low-level converter boxes to do this job. Although it’s not an ideal option compared to using proper pre-outs, it is a more efficient setup. Also on some factory stereos, they lower the bass level as the volume increases. You can get higher quality line convertors or DSP units specifically made to compensate for this, as well as adding EQ, Time alignment and other features.